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My school has started since last week and I'm having fun with my friend.
It's been raining nearly everyday, for like one week. That's so bad 'cause the dirty water is coming through from the river, so the sea is like Sooooooooo stink and brown. It just looks like Kugenuma River. But the good thing is the surf has been pretty big, like 4?6ft for about 5 days and actually it's really good.
However, the surf is dropping off so much, so tomorrow is goanna be small like 2-3ft. but still good waves, I reckon.
By the way
Today, when I was surfing, I snapped my surfboard which is the best board I ever had. Tell you why, I caught really sick wave and I pull into the tube but I fell off 'cause it was massive tube, and after that I checked my board, half bit was gone as pick. Now what I want to say is I really need new board so could I ask Skye to shape my board, please?
I got a surfboard from Japan and its working pretty good, but it is little bit too thin for me. So in the water, when I try to get more speed and push the board hard, I don't get as speed as another board which I snapped today. It is fine but it isn't awesome! So, can you think about it?
DAI
Uncle O
by “½–¼ | 2008年02月10日 23:31